Ice Bar to Ice Trek

Brrrr….Ice, Ice and more Ice! – Fantastic! Fantastic -a must if visiting South America

I had always wanted to try trekking with crampons and my chance came when I travelled to South America for 2 months and whilst researching hikes I found a ‘mini’ trekking experience on the Perito Moreno Glacier, Los Glaciares National Park, Southern Patagonia, Argentina. The only thing was that there was an age restriction of 65 years of age and I would be that when I arrived in South America so I quickly booked it before my birthday and it was accepted!

Downtown El Calafate

After trekking 7 days on ‘W’ Trek in Patagonia I caught a local bus to El Calafate.

Whilst there I enjoyed a visit to the Glaciarium- interpretation glaciological centre and had a drink in the Glaciobar Branca – ice bar. The ice bar is below zero and you are handed coat and gloves to keep you warm – there is a maximum stay of 20 minutes – just enough time to get down a couple of drinks.

Venturing down the stairs as I opened the door it looked like a night club with all its strobe lights and loud music but the walls, seats, tables, bar and the drinking glasses are all made of glacier ice. They have a temperature gauge on the wall – it showed -5 degrees. I ordered my first drink and am I glad they gave us gloves as holding the ice glass without them would have been impossible. As I went to sit down on the chair it was good to see cushions or I could still be stuck to the chairs!

Love the jacket - certainly needed it - and especially the gloves when holding the glass made from ice

Hmm... no wonder it is cold. -5 degrees

The next day I caught a bus for the 78km trip to Perito Mareno Glacier. They were picking up people from different hotels on the way and to my surprise 2 of my trekking mates, father and son from England that I hiked the ‘W’ trek were also heading to trek the glacier.

On arriving at Bajode las Sobras pier I caught a boat crossing over the Argentino Lake which took me up close to the glacier. Pieces of ice float in the lake that have broken off from the glacier earlier in the day. It is hard to believe the sheer size, jagged peaks and beautiful turquoise colour.  Hanging out on side of the deck trying to get a spot for a photo was a bit frightening with everybody pushing and shoving – decided safer to use my camera with its strap than take the chances of my mobile going overboard as everybody jostled for a position.

Even this boat is dwarfed by the magnificent Perito Moreno Glacier

Perito Moreno Glacier is the world’s 3rd largest freshwater reserve. It rises 75 metres above the surface (whilst 170m of it is underwater) and is over 30km long and up to 5km wide. All up, it covers a mind-boggling 250 square kilometres. It is unusual that it is advancing and not retreating. The best time to go is between November to March when the weather is at its best.

Best to layer your clothes, fleece top, good rain/windproof jacket, hiking boots, beanie, good merino socks, sunscreen and definitely gloves for warmth and sunglasses to prevent glare and reflections from the ice. You could wear waterproof over-pants, although I didn’t on this trip but I had a pair of thermals underneath my hiking trousers. We weren’t allowed to take a backpack as the guide said we could over balance, a small bum bag would be a good idea. There are lockers at the beginning of hike where you can leave valuables.

After leaving the boat a short picturesque walk along the beach to the edge of the glacier where we had an introductory talk about the glacier and were fitted for crampons by experienced mountain guides ready for our trek on this breathtaking glacier.

Excitement builds as we get closer to the glacier as we walk along the rocky beach

I had never walked in crampons before so it was good they explained how – walk flat and firmly so metal tips dig into ice, slightly raising the feet, not dragging, separate feet slightly to prevent catching crampons on clothes or metal on metal and to prevent you from falling. Going up slope – short flat steps like a penguin  – follow in a line behind guide. Descending – keep your centre of gravity, bend your knees, stomp the ice, engage all vertical crampon points – easier said than done

So many different size crampons

My first steps on Glacier with crampons

Stepping onto the ice for the first time is an amazing experience as you are still getting used to walking with crampons and now have to negotiate the steep ascent and watch the crevices. The huge expanse of ice peaks, ice sculptures, turquoise crevices, lakes, valleys is so mesmerising and then the creaking /cracking noise followed by complete silence make you appreciate the wonders of nature.

We had to follow the same line of the guide so we didn’t take a wrong step and end up down a crevice.  The guides have checked out the trail we will walk early in the morning to make sure they are safe. The glacier is constantly moving slowly so all the crevices and valleys will never be the same each day.

Just getting my glacier legs

Looking dangerous - thank heavens I didn't need to use it!

One of the many beautiful lakes peeping over the top of the glacier

Incredible ice sculptures

Hmmm... a bit close to the crevice. What beautiful colours

Pleased the guide is hanging out over the edge

As we came around the bend in the middle of nowhere was a small table setup with whisky. What a way to celebrate the awesome experience with a glass of whisky and glacier ice followed by chocolates. Lucky for my friends from the ‘W’ trek I am not a big whisky drinker so after a sip I let them enjoy it. Probably a good thing as we still had to walk downhill to get off the glacier and I needed to concentrate so I didn’t fall. – at one stage I had the guide help me down as I felt like I was going to topple over and plant my face into the ice

Anyone for a whisky with glacial ice?

No it isn't a dunny!

After our walk we returned to the shelter to eat our lunch and sit and admire the glacier from a different view.

Back at the shelter

View from near the shelter

After my boat trip back I was picked up by the bus and taken to the Glacier’s viewpoint where there is a maze of wooden walkways that you can walk and view the glacier from all angles and hear and see pieces calving from the glacier

Absolutely fantastic adventure. A must do if you travel to South America.

Love to hear about your experience trekking with crampons. (You will need to click on the main heading 'Ice Bar to Ice Trek' to comment.

Presentation - Hiking Mt Kilimanjaro for a Cause

Mt Kilimanjaro, Tanzania, Africa is special to me as I was lucky to share the climb to the summit with my son Ben for my 60th birthday.

It was fantastic hearing the enthusiasm of Nathan from https://adventureoutloud.me/ when he presented at https://www.meetup.com/Your-Boots-are-made-for-Hiking-Meetup/  on hiking

Mt Kilimanjaro for a cause, outlining the great work that School of St Jude do for educating disadvantaged children and details of Safari tours.

Nathan (Nate) started  https://adventureoutloud.me/ in late 2015 as he wanted to help travellers give back while they explore in disadvantaged communities.

 Nate was very informative and below are some of the questions that were answered throughout the presentation

• How high is Mt Kilimanjaro (5895m above sea level)
• How many people a year climb Kilimanjaro (over 30,000)
• What are the oxygen levels at the summit (appx half the oxygen we currently have)
•  Is it technically hard (no, the Baranco wall has some rock scrambling and the trail to Summit is loose scree)
•  Is it cold (could get 4 seasons in 1 day - mornings and evenings can be cold and could get to -25 degrees at the summit)
• What is the scenery – (hike through 5 different types of  vegetation – farmland, rainforest, heather & moorland, alpine desert, arctic),
• What is altitude sickness:
• AMS - Acute Mountain Sickness – mild altitude sickness - headache, nausea, and fatigue
• HAPE – High Altitude Pulmonary Edema - excess fluid on the lungs, and causes breathlessness
• HACE – High Altitude Cerebral Edema - fluid on the brain. It causes confusion, clumsiness, and stumbling
• How many different routes are there up Mt Kilimanjaro (7 main ones – Marangu, Machame , Lemosho , Shira, Northern Circuit, Rongai, Umbwe)
• How long does it take to climb to the summit, )(depending on route you choose – between 5 to 9 days)
• What clothing should I wear (layer up with merino and fleece and good waterproof jacket and trousers, balaclava, well worn in boots),
• What are the toilets like (basic - porter will carry toilet)

If you would like to visit Tanzania in Africa and climb this mountain at the same time for a cause to help disadvantaged children contact Nate who will be keen to chat and answer all your questions

Have you climbed Mt Kilimanjaro? - would love to hear about your experience

Would you eat a cane toad to survive in the bush?

Survival in the bush comes in many forms and a morning on the trails of Ewen Maddock Dam with Rick Petersen from 'Men of Change' introduced us to many interesting bush survival skills including some of the following.

• What weeds are edible
• What plants can be used for medicinal use
• How to use  a survival straw
• How to apply a snake bandage
• How to judge distances when hiking
• How to use the shadow stick method
• How to work out directions
• How to start a fire without matches

Rick Petersen talking about edible plants

Bush tucker - edible plants

We all had a fright and jumped into action when we thought Rick had been bitten by a snake. People grabbing for their phones to make emergency calls, my getting Rick to lay down as he appeared disorientated and telling him to stay with me and asking people for a snake bandage. Fortunately it was only a scenario to see how we would react.

The best of the day was to come where Rick cooked up a bush tucker meal with plants from the bush with a special treat.

Rick played a 'Bush tucker Challenge' where we had to guess the height of Mt Kosciuszko and unfortunately I won!

 He told me I was to have a treat that not many have the opportunity to enjoy. As I saw this small aluminium foil parcel being presented to me I knew what it would be - CANE TOAD!! Rick had presented Survival Skills in the Bush at my group 'Your Boots are made for Hiking and had talked about how you could eat CANE TOAD!

As I opened up the package and saw those hind legs splayed out with it's long sharp toenails I suddenly felt like I wanted to vomit. I thought I have to save face in front of the 18 other people I was sharing this day with on the trails. I could feel their eyes staring at me waiting to see my reaction when I take my first bite of this ..........!! I turned to Rick and said 'You go First' - I then quickly picked it up by it's legs and took a BITE! - I am sure I had a very strange look on my face. Hmm... a bit tough I thought - fortunately Rick had cooked it in a lot of Moroccan spices which overtook the taste. One little bite was enough for me so I handed it around to the rest of the group. Not everybody was game but some enjoyed this most unusual treat. Yes cane toads are poisonous but as someone said to me - just trust Rick so I did trust that he had removed the body properly so all the poison was gone - guess it must have been as I am still here! Can tick that one off the list along with having eaten guinea pig and frogs legs.

What unusual delicacies  have you eaten?

The Cane Toad!

Do I look like I am enjoying this!

A test of my fitness - 24 km hike Summer Falls

A great 24km hike on Sunday tested out my fitness. No wet feet with the 3 very low creek crossings to Booloumba Creek day use area then a steep climb to Summer Falls and return.

Perfect weather for hiking as we crossed the 1st creek the sun filtered through the trees showing us the gravel road to hike towards the next creek crossing, farm gates made from old rusted tools and birds singing in the trees and the chatter of hiking mates was a good start to the day.

We started the switchback climb towards Summer Falls passing the turn off to Mt Allan and Artist Cascade. Lots of different flora lined the track. As the hill seemed to go on forever it was good to see the many Great Walk signs telling us 6.2kms, Easy track, 3 kms to Summers Falls.
We crossed over a couple of main roads before the last few kilometres walk down to Summer Falls and the camping ground.

I have camped at Summer Falls before and it is a lovely spot with a large open area also small private areas with platforms.
A very enjoyable lunch break overlooking the falls with the water falling over the phyllite rocks and reflections in the rockpools.

As we hiked back to the Booloumba Creek day use area a small bandit type snake slithered across the track and we were serenaded by the bellbirds and greeted by cows in the paddock.

My ever evolving collection of backpacks

When I started hiking many years ago in Tassie I had no idea what was the best backpack to buy and nor did I ask for any expert advice in the shops. i just tried  a couple on and if they were comfortable I bought the one I most liked.

My first backpack was a dark green color and fairly large with a drawstring to close the main body of the pack. I felt very proud as I placed this backpack on as I now felt like a real hiker. It only had a thin hip belt and no straps across the front, but it had lots of big pockets to store things in. This backpack was my pride and joy for many years. 

I also bought a smaller backpack for shorter day hikes - this was made of a material similar to canvas.the outside pockets were different as they were made of a mesh and instead of a drawstring it had a zip for the main body

I didn't have any waterproof cover so always had to have an emergency poncho to put over me and my bag

In those days I did't use hiking poles as the knees were a bit younger and packs didn't have anywhere to store them when not in use.

Once I moved to Queensland to start hiking much more seriously with a  hiking group i could see I needed to look the part so off to Mountain Design to see what is available. They explained to me that the Deuter Futura was specially made for women as the shoulder straps are more narrow and shaped for women. Also the hip belt is a good fit for womens hips. 

After being fitted with a 30 litre backpack I certainly could feel the difference with so many straps that could be adjusted if needed, loops for my hiking poles, lidded top that can be adjusted to the main compartment, chest strap, strong hip belt, good side pockets with zips, inbuilt rain cover, mesh back ventilation. The only thing I find is the access to water bottles in  he side pockets is difficult so I overcame that by buying a 3 litre widepac Source hydration system which I love and there is a special place to store this in the backpack. Knowing how to fit and adjust your backpack certainly makes for a more comfortable trek.

This backpack has seen a lot of the world hiking overseas in Africa, South America, Italy, Switzerland, France, Jordan and many more places.

I found that I needed a smaller one for day hikes so bought another Deuter 22 litre. it is comfortable but lacks some of the features of the larger ones eg it has a much thinner hip strap and I find it moves a bit and the main compartment is zipped but it also has many straps for adjustments and built in rain cover.

A quick hike up some of the local mountains needed a small backpack to carry water and a snack so the Mountain Design Pump 3L fitted the bill an it comes with a free Source 3L Filtration system

The 3 Capes hike in Tassie was coming up and I realised that once again I would need to upgrade as I needed to carry my food, sleeping gear, clothing for a 3 night  / 4 day hike. I bought another Deuter - this time 34 litre and could fit all I needed in it. All my previous backpacks were a green colour and this time I splashed out and bought a red one. This pack had nearly all the features of my 30 litre and with the lidded top it was very useful to be able to put my gortex jacket under it and pull the straps down tight.

 I have recently done some overnight / multi day hiking carrying all my gear and now find I will need to upgrade my backpack to between a 45-50 litre backpack. Will check out the Deuter and Osprey packs.

Any recommendations for a good pack would be appreciated.